Even though I'm making a 1-3/8"-thick interior-sized door I made the extended tenons 1/2" thick and left the door-making router bits set up to create a 1/2" panel groove. To finish the cope cuts on the ends of the rails that mate with the profile on the edges of the stiles, I used the extended tenon cutter (91-525TC) at the router table. A Dadonator dado blade makes quick work of this task. Remove the bulk of the material on the rails to create tenons. I created 2"-long tenons by rough-cutting the tenon at the table saw using a Dadonator, 8"stacked dado blade. This extra tenon length is important to take into account when cutting your rails to final length. This creates more glue surface and a stronger door assembly than the stub tenons the rail and stile router bits create by themselves. I used extra-long, extended tenons on all of the rails. With all pieces milled to final thickness, width, and length it's time to cut the tenons. To give the door added strength, I opted to use longer tenons on the rails. The rail and stile router bits create a stub tenon that fits into the groove on the inside edge of the stiles. Since we're using the rail and stile router bit set, most of the joinery is done automatically when routing the pieces. Today, we'll focus on the proper procedure and tools for cutting all of the joinery to create a strong door assembly. In Part 1 of our Entry Door project, I showed you how I go about milling all of the pieces so they're straight, square, and smooth. One of the key components of success is a Rail & Stile Router Bit Set for Entry & Passage Doors. Consistency is a good thing relative to design on distributed elements like this.Making an entry door is easy when you have the right tools and use the proper techniques. If I recall the bottom rail was 10" tall the middle one was 8.5" tall and the top one was 6" tall in that particular case.Īnd in the case of your home, if you're creating a new door, you may want to match the proportions of existing unless you plan on replacing all of them. (that includes those where the panel is further divided into "lights", glass or not) That's how the doors are in a friend/client's house and I had to duplicate that when I kitted out a couple of bi-folds for his kitchen pantry and coat closet so that they would look like they belong with the other doors. Some doors have a progression of three different heights for the rails in a typical configuration of a "two panel" door. The bottom on is almost always a lot taller than the others, both to provide some space for trimming height and because it will look better from most common viewing angles. Mickey, take a stroll through the door department (or your own home) and look at the typical proportions for the rails on passage doors.
#Stiles and rails proportions how to
If the answer is tongue and groove type joinery, would I have to increase the width of the panel in order to have a thick enough tenon on the rails and what is the minimum length of the tenon? If loose tenon is the answer, how big should I make the tenons (length and width)? One thing I'm really confused about loose tenons is how to make the grooves for panels without grooving the entire length of the stile.or do you?
Given that this is a simple mission style door, would you use tongue and groove or groove for the panel and loose tenon joints for the styles and rails (or cope and stick?)? I have a shaper and slot mortiser. What thickness do you typically use for the panel for a non-raised panel interior door? I was thinking 1/4" but should it be larger?Ģ. I have a few questions that I hope you guys can help with.ġ. The design will be fairly simple because my wife likes the mission style design. These will be paint grade doors so probably looking to use mdf panels.
I'm about to start building a couple of interior doors that will be roughly 28 X 80.
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